Batumi, Georgia: the best things to eat, see, do

This article appeared in Conde Nast on November ’24. You can see the original article here.

Flung out on the far edge of Georgia and almost spilling into Turkey, the coastal resort of Batumi is the second largest city in Georgia and the capital of the Ajara autonomous region. It is often overlooked on a first visit to Georgia because of its distance from the capital of Tbilisi (approx 360km/6 hrs) but it has its own unique charm and deserves more attention from the visitor.

So there we were barrelling down a lonely Georgian highway through the night in our Mercedes Sprinter until Batumi with its funky skyline looms out from under a leaden sky with the vast backdrop of the Black Sea adding to the chiaroscuro effect.

Things to do in Batumi

The next morning the skies had cleared and we stepped out for a stroll along Batumi Boulevard, the iconic promenade which skirts the sparkling Black Sea for eight kilometres. This superb city park created in 1881 was the work of both Chief Gardener Frenchman Michael D’Alfons who was succeeded by French-trained native son Jason Gordeziani. The promenade is sprinkled with a very innovative collection of statues and structures and a walk through the pine forest is soothing and relaxing. Look out for the Colonnade, two elegant white Greek-style columns, which form a gateway to the sea and modelled on the original in Sorrento. Also the unique Alphabet Tower, soaring to 130m and consisting of two intertwined helixes that form the letters of the Georgian alphabet and culminating in a giant silver ball which houses a revolving restaurant.

But for me the abiding memory of the Batumi Boulevard will be the Ali and Nino statue, a stunning kinetic sculpture which tells the story of the doomed love between Ali, a Muslim nobleman from Azerbaijan and Nino, a Christian princess from Georgia. The two figures made of stacked steel rings move towards each other, merge for a few seconds and separate every ten minutes in an endless loop. This masterpiece created by Georgian sculptress Tamara Kvesitadze had me mesmerised with its poignant reminder of the fruitless quest for eternal love.

The good work of DÁlfons, Gordeziani and other famous landscape gardeners continued with the opening of the Batumi Botanical Garden in 1812 about nine Km north of the main city. This lovely park slopes upwards before falling away to the sea in a stunning escarpment and covers an area of about one square KM. Nine geographic zones covering the world are represented and you can see over 2,000 plant species including bamboo plantations, flowery magnolias, Californian giant sequoias, Mexican wetland cypresses, and more. One can take an electric bus all the way to the top and back but the best way to explore is to walk through the lush greenery and enjoy the panoramic views of the Black Sea and the rocky coastline far below.

Batumi has a few interesting historical sites in close proximity of which one is the fortress of Gonio-Apsaros right across the border from Turkey. Built by the Romans in the 1st century AD, it was occupied by the Byzantines in the 6th century and finally by the Ottomans in the 16th century. A small museum sits in the middle of the site with a cross outside marking what is believed to be the grave of the Apostle Matthias. The archaeological gallery within the museum has artefacts from each of the empires that controlled the fort. Today, visitors can explore the ruins of the fortress and climb through the remains of the ancient walls, watchtowers, and baths. The most impressive sight is the well-preserved Roman gate, which features inscriptions and carvings.

Where and what to eat in Batumi

You cannot visit Georgia without encountering khachapuri (cheese bread), their beloved national dish. This is a large hollow pastry made of dough and filled with melted imeruli and sulguni cheeses and topped off with an egg yolk–not a dish for weight-watchers! In Batumi, the absolute go-to place is the Alaverdi restaurant where you can build your own khachapuri under the watchful eye of Masterchef Gia Agurba. The Ajarian khachapuri takes the unique distinctive shape of a boat in honour of its coastal origins and the egg yolk is meant to symbolise the rising sun.

Georgia boasts that it is the cradle of wine-making with a wine culture dating back 8,000 years and a truly bewildering range of grape varietals. So here we find ourselves winding our way up the Ajarian foothills to Chateau Iveri, a small boutique family-run winery where we are warmly welcomed and invited to sample their top range of wines. I particularly liked their signature white Tsolikouri and the ubiquitous Saperavi, which is the backbone of the dry Georgian reds. Inevitable khachapuri takes centre stage on the table but is also accompanied by kharcho (traditional soup with beef, rice and various spices garnished with walnut sauce and plum puree), chvishtari (cornbread with cheese) and ending with pelamushi (grape dessert).

But for me the highlight was definitely the accompanying entertainment. Three robust Georgian men dressed in grey and black tunics and wearing bandoliers strapped across their chests regaled us with their melodious polyphonic singing. Their harmonious voices soared high and dipped low at different musical pitches combined with the heavy food and the plentiful wine to lull us into a soporific state of inebriation and satiation. It was a state of sheer bliss and I was sufficiently high even to join the lead singer Badri and his stringed panduri in his singing of which I understood not a word!

If you need a break from the staple diet of bread, cheese and eggs, then being right on the coast Batumi offers a great alternative in terms of fresh fish caught right from the Black Sea. The go-to place here is Fishlandia, a large restaurant where you can choose the fish yourself–the seating area has glass walls fronting the sea itself but we chose to sit at the tables outside and enjoy the sparkling sunset. We ordered large platters of grilled fish–salmon, trout, sea bass, barbun, dorado and mussels served with various dipping sauces made from pomegranates and walnuts and washed it down with the popular flavoured Georgian lemonade made from natural fruit syrup.

Batumi: Plan your trip

When to go: Batumi has a mild, subtropical climate, making it a year-round tourist destination. However, Adjara province is also the rainiest place in Georgia so make sure you carry an umbrella or rain jacket.

Getting there: IndiGo airlines flies once a day direct from Delhi to Tbilisi departing Delhi at 7.20pm and returning from Tbilisi at 12.30am. From Tbilisi it is a six-hour land journey to Batumi. You can opt for a train (EUR 12) or bus (EUR 7).

Visas: Indian travellers can apply for a Georgia e-visa online, which takes five working days. Holders of US or Schengen visas can enter Georgia visa-free for 90 days.

Getting around: In Batumi, there are plenty of options for bicycle rides along the seaside and in town as well and you can rent bikes or scooters easily.

Accessibility: Batumi Boulevard and the Batumi Botanical Garden are largely wheelchair-accessible, as well as main streets and squares, featuring smooth pathways. Many newer hotels, restaurants and public buildings are also equipped with accessible entrances and elevators. However, some older buildings in the Old Town may still have challenges for wheelchair access and sidewalk ramps can be inconsistent.