Exploring the NorthEast
This article appeared in the Vistara Inflight Magazine, August 2024 edition. You can see the original print here.
There’s something about travel that brings with it an inherent sense of breaking free from the conventional and opening oneself up to exciting, new experiences. And when it involves the added lure of wide, bountiful spaces, where one can stand with arms spread out, as if embracing the world, the feeling of liberation is priceless.
So, recently, when I got the opportunity to be a part of Defender Journeys, a unique motoring-holiday concept allowing adventure enthusiasts to drive the eponymous SUV across various terrains, I signed up instantly! Created by Cougar Motorsport and Jaguar Land Rover, this specific excursion involved a trip that began from the city of Guwahati, in the lush basin of the Brahmaputra River, and went up to the frosty heights of the Bum La Pass on the Indo-China border and back again. More than 1,000 kilometres in just a week!
The King Of Kaziranga
As a keen motorist tempted by the call of the far-reaching road, I could hardly restrain my excitement when we headed out that first day, gliding along National Highway 37 out of Guwahati in a sophisticated white Defender. Our first destination: the Kaziranga National Park, home of the endangered Indian one-horned rhinoceros. The vehicle was a dream to drive with its sheer power, comfort, and manoeuvrability. As we neared our stop, close to four hours later, we passed several ‘Warning: Animal Crossing’ signs. Soon, I found myself jamming the brakes and bringing the vehicle to a skidding halt.
There it was: A giant bull rhino just below the berm, shuffling its way up to cross the road. I could feel my heart thudding in my chest, and my jaw dropped as we watched the great beast tread heavily along its way. Reaching the middle of the crossing, it stopped to turn its head and looked right at us with its little eyes, dark as the night sky. Gently, its massive head bobbed up and down, as if sizing up the threat—its prominent horn brandished like a scimitar. The rhino and the SUV each weigh around 2,000 kilograms and stand about 6.5 feet tall, but this would be a no-contest in a head-to-head fight! Time seemed to stand still as we held our breath in pin-drop silence. Finally, the mighty beast turned and resumed its amble across the road. To say that we all heaved a sigh of relief once it cleared the way would be an understatement!
The Long Road To Tawang
Given the excitement of the day, our group eventually turned in for some well-deserved rest that night. And the next morning, we resumed our trip. This involved crossing the expansive Brahmaputra, lying deceptively flat as a pancake with several low-tide islands appearing as bubbles on its skin, via the iconic Kolia Bhomora Setu. We whizzed across this 3-kilometre-long bridge, a noteworthy attraction in itself, on an amazingly smooth drive and made our way towards the teaplantation haven of Tezpur. As soon as the low-lying peaks of the Shivalik Hills came into view, we knew we were in Arunachal Pradesh, the ‘Land of The Rising Sun’. The scenery changed as we climbed upwards into the mountains, with thick forests around us.
Suddenly, a dense fog descended, wrapping our convoy in its embrace. We crawled forward gingerly till the black maw of a tunnel appeared, and we drove through it to emerge into clear daylight—the mysterious fog had gone as quickly as it had appeared! The bright sky felt like the dawn of fresh beginnings to my fanciful mind. I felt more energised than I had felt in days. Since our destination was the border-town of Tawang, a fair distance away, we made a pit stop for the night at a tiny town called Dirang. The next day, we continued our drive upwards: our goal was still seven hours away. En route, we stopped at one of the most popular tourists stops in the region— the magnificent Sela Pass. Located at a height of almost 14,000 feet, it offers mesmerising views of the surrounding mountains. Resisting the temptation to linger, we drove on and soon reached Tawang—a picturesque town, dotted with Buddhist monasteries and nestled amongst towering snow-covered peaks that seemed to touch the sky! What struck me most was how serene and uncrowded it was. I presume it’s because of its isolated setting, with the nearest airport several hours away and no train facilities. The untouched beauty spoke of its enviable location. I took a deep breath of the cool, fresh air, and as I released it, I realised how far I had travelled to savour this sense of escape into the arms of nature.
Weary from the long drive, we checked in at the Vivanta Arunachal Pradesh, Tawang, a gorgeous sanctuary in the heart of a lush valley. Hunger pangs led us to the outdoor patio where an Arunachali thali had been laid out for us. There was no stopping as we dug into a meal that included pork momos, thenthuk (noodle soup), oying (vegetable stew), and kharzi (rice with spring onions, fermented cheese, ginger, and lots of red chillies). This is the traditional cuisine of the Monpa tribe, who are Buddhists and dominant in the Tawang and adjacent West Kameng districts. The food was delightfully different and delicious. ’Twas a good night, indeed!
An Icy Escapade
I didn’t know it then, but the next day’s excursion to the Indo-China border would be the most exciting part of the entire trip! We began early, our convoy reflecting the colours of a military uniform as the single file of white and green SUVs moved along the twisty roads. I smiled thinking how befitting it was given we were in a region guarded by the Indian Army. Our destination was Bum La Pass, at a height of 15,200 feet above sea level, about 35 kilometres from Tawang.
The gorgeous Pankang Teng Tso captures the blue skies in its crystal-clear waters.
While the distance was short, it involved several hairpin bends and twists on the steep road up. At one point, we took a small diversion to the Pankang Teng Tso, a lake reminiscent of a glittering jewel. The track down to the water, however, was covered in snow and soon, the car leading our convoy could go no further. The tail car then attempted to turn around but slid down the slope. A few tense moments passed as the wheels spun, frantically chucking off a continuous shower of snow, while digging deeper into the rut. Finally, Armaan, the man behind the wheel in that car, managed to gain higher ground and we breathed easy again. But not for long as he nonchalantly threw the keys to our car at me, asking me to reverse through the snow onto the highway. My heart in my mouth, I engaged the Grass/ Gravel/Snow drive mode and managed to complete the impromptu test smoothly and without mishap. Phew!
Making our way along the treacherous, winding roads leading to Bum La Pass.
We resumed our upward journey and, about an hour later, reached the famous pass, marking India’s border with China. My first impression was of a cold, desolate, windswept plateau with soaring icy ridges. Oddly, the area was packed with tourists enjoying tea and biscuits! My bewilderment was quelled somewhat as we met a smiling Major Shekhar, who briefed us on the area’s history. I was fascinated by the two Chinese border guards, wearing balaclavas, staring at us through their binoculars, barely 10 feet away. Major Shekhar explained the importance of Bum La Pass as being the point where the top brass of the two nation’s armies meets face-to-face for talks. He signed off with a sharp salute, escorted us back to his command tent, and treated us to a cup of coffee and selfie opportunities. Ah, the distinguished dignity of a man in uniform!
A Parting Prayer
The next day, it was time to head home. We started back down from Tawang to the Brahmaputra plains. And the transition from snowy peaks to tropical forests, as we descended thousands of feet, was akin to travelling between two separate worlds. Finally, nine hours later, we arrived at our destination—Wild Mahseer, a resort in Balipara, about 25 kilometres from Tezpur. The plush property evokes a colonial past combined with a relaxing holiday in a soothing tea-plantation setting. That evening, we unwound over drinks and were refreshed enough the next morning for a quick guided tour of the Eastern Himalayan Botanic Park nearby. Soon, it was time to leave and the hotel staff tied a five colour thread on my wrist, signifying the five elements of nature—an Assamese prayer to these powerful forces to protect us on our onward journey. I said a silent prayer of my own to return to this slice of paradise in our Northeast in the near future. After all, the best way to feel alive is to travel well and travel often.
