How to trek to Nongriat's double decker living root bridge

Meghalaya prides itself as a place where people live at one with nature and probably the most powerful example of that is the amazing phenomenon of the living root bridge. These bridges created out of the secondary roots of the rubber fig tree by Khasi villagers have to be seen to be believed: they are like something taken straight out of Tolkien’s fictional Middle Earth. You can find a number of such bridges spanning streams next to villages in the East Khasi Hills and all are accessible from Cherrapunji. But the Mother Goddess of them all is the totally unique one-of-a-kind double decker living root bridge found deep down in a river valley next to the village of Nongriat.

What makes the living root bridge at Nongriat special?
The living root bridge at Nongriat has two levels, apparently because the river rose so high one season that it covered the original bridge and so the Khasis had to build another one. It is truly a sight to behold, with the gnarled roots stretching right across the river to grasp the other side.

What is the best time to visit the living root bridge at Nongriat?
The best time to visit Meghalaya is the summer season (April-June) when the weather is comfortably warm and conducive to outdoor activities. Avoid the monsoon (July-September) when it is pouring buckets with Cherrapunji and Mawsynram being two of the rainiest cities onEarth!

Where do you start the trek to the living root bridge at Nongriat?
The base station for the Nongriat trek is Cherrapunji, which is about a two-hour drive (54km) from Shillong. Ideally stay there overnight and then next morning drive to the roadhead hamlet of Tyrna which is 30min (12km) from where the descent starts.

When should you start the trek to the double-decker living root bridge at Nongriat ?
As early as possible, given the fact that it is a full-day exercise and will take you nearly six hours up and down (longer if you plan to go to Rainbow Falls). Consider that the sun sets earlier in the northeast of India, and aim to reach Tyrna by 8am to make the most of your daylight.

How long does it take to trek down to the living root bridge?
Everyone will tell you that it takes 3,000 steps to get to Nongriat but nobody has really counted them nor are there any markers on the way. A better measure would be the average time taken which would be about two hours and the distance covered of 3km. The initial descent from the roadhead is a relentlessly steep one dropping 2,400 feet to the valley floor down stone steps that feel like they go on forever. After an hour, you will be at the halfway point which is the village of Nongthymmai, which also has the longest single root bridge in the world. From here, the trail flattens out a bit and while continuing to descend, the going becomes easier. You will cross two rickety wire bridges across subsidiary rivulets where the water collects in pools of an iridescent turquoise blue, a very pretty sight. Just before Nongriat is the first single root bridge which you will cross, five minutes before getting to the ultimate prize the Double Decker Living Root Bridge.

Do you need a guide to trek to the living root bridge at Nongriat?
Practically, no guide is necessary to do this trek as the route is pretty well laid out and there are always people on the trail that you can ask. However, the government has now determined that you need to be accompanied by a guide (Rs700*), so you don’t have any choice. My guide Shyam really proved his worth on the way back up when he kept encouraging me when I was flagging and even carried my backpack the last stretch.

How fit do you need to be to do this trek?
You don’t need to be a gym rat to do this trek but you do need to be fit and used to walking. Trekking is about mental strength more than physical prowess and this trek is taxing on the return when you have to climb back up all those hundreds of steep steps !

What kind of clothing/equipment do you need for the trek ?
It would be good to have a sturdy pair of sneakers or hiking boots, a backpack and water bottle, a cap, sunblock and insect repellent and a couple of trekking poles is always a good idea. If you want to go local, the villagers will sell you a green bamboo stave that you can keep as a souvenir. Don’t make the mistake of wearing too many layers but have a light rain jacket handy. Trekking through the thick green jungle will have you sweating in no time in the humid atmosphere.

How child-friendly is the trek to the living root bridge of Nongriat?
Ages eight and above is a good age for this effort. Anybody younger might get bored or tired and you or your guide will end up carrying them back up!

Are there any entry fees?
It costs Rs20* per person payable at the ticket booth just before the bridge and Rs50 for a still camera.

Can you get refreshments?
There is a small dhaba which serves Maggi noodles and boiled eggs and dal-rice. Chips and soft drinks are also available. It’s a good idea to carry some packed food for the way.

Where to stay in Nongriat?
Several very basic homestays have sprung up as the trek has become more popular. Among the more well-known ones are Odyssey Stays (Rs1,300*) and Serene Homestay (Rs1,500*). These are nothing more than backpacker places to park your feet at night but there is electricity, rod heaters for hot water and shared washrooms!

Is there anything more to see besides the living root bridge?
If I were to do this trek again, I would stay one night at Nongriat and then make the bonus hike to the beautiful Rainbow Falls, which is an additional three-hour round-trip journey.

Can you swim in the pools below the living root bridge?
After a sweltering hike, getting into the pools below the bridge and being thoroughly drenched by the cascades of water pouring out of the jungle was absolutely delightful and, for me, the high point of the whole experience. Be prepared for the weird sensation of myriads of unseen small fish nipping away at your feet!

Can you get emergency help on the Nongriat trek ?
At the halfway mark of Nongthymmai, there are a few rudimentary stretchers, which are used daily to carry exhausted trekkers back up to the top. Naturally such a manual evacuation will cost you an arm and a leg so it’s better to make a realistic assessment of your own physical abilities before taking the plunge down to Nongriat. But no question that the magical spectacle of the double decker living root bridge that lies at the end is worth every step of the slog!

*Prices are subject to change.

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