Visit to Bhopal: Going to the Heart of the Matter

Smack bang in the middle of the Indian subcontinent is the giant sprawling state of Madhya Pradesh. And lying in the centre of the state is its unassuming capital of Bhopal. As a tourist destination, Bhopal has little to offer – unlike Jaipur or Hyderabad it was never the seat of a great empire. And all the major things to see and do in MP like the cultural centres of Gwalior, Khajuraho and Orchha and the tiger sanctuaries of Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench are scattered all over the state, none within convenient driving distance of Bhopal.

Nevertheless, if official government work takes you to Bhopal or you have family and friends there, it is worth taking an extra day to visit the handful of sights it has to offer. These are almost all beyond the outskirts of Bhopal so it would be very useful to have a car handy.

Sanchi

Just over an hour’s drive from Bhopal is the famous Buddhist site of Sanchi built on a low hill. Sanchi was once a great centre for Buddhist learning and propagation during its period of prominence from the 3^rdC B.C. to the 12^thC A.D. Although the Buddha never actually visited here, the great Emperor Asoka built a giant stupa in his honour. Sitting at the top of the rise like a great stone helmet crowned by a triple umbrella, the stupa is embellished by four toranas (gateways) which are its most distinctive feature. Each torana is elaborately carved with scenes from the Jatakas which chronicles the previous births and lives of the Buddha before he attained Nirvana. These are among the finest expressions of pre-Buddhist art and stand as a lively, decorated counterpart to the massive solidity of the stupa they encircle. There are a number of other ruined stupas, monasteries and temples on the grounds but nothing that compares to the giant stupa.

Cost and timings: The Sanchi stupa is open seven days a week from 6:30 AM to 6:30 PM. Entry cost is Rs 30 per adult and Rs 500 for foreigners. You can also visit the small museum with stone artefacts within the price of the main ticket.

Bhojpur

Founded by the legendary Parmar king of Dhar, Raja Bhoj in the 11^th A.D. and named after him, Bhojpur, 28 Km from Bhopal is renowned for the remains of its magnificent Bhojeswar Temple and Cyclopean dams. The temple sits like a massive army tank at the top of a small rise with a yawning opening revealing the largest Shiva lingam in India (7.5 feet high and 17.8 feet around) elevated on a three-storied limestone platform. The temple was never completed, and the dome that was meant to be supported by four massive and intricately carved internal pillars is conspicuous by its absence. The gleaming polished lingam sits like an upended cannon shell and completes the overall impression of masculinity and strength. Also of interest in the area are the ruins of two large earthen dams, faced with enormous blocks of sandstone, which diverted and blocked the Betwa river and thus created an enormous lake for the use of the surrounding villages.

Bhimbetka Rock Shelters:

Driving further south from Bhojpur one comes to the fascinating Bhimbetka (the resting place of Bhim) Rock Shelters. This craggy outcrop of sandstone rocks was once submerged under a vast inland sea and the shelters have been formed through aeons of water erosion which have scoured their walls smooth as a pebble. What is compelling about them is that they exhibit the earliest traces of human life on the Indian subcontinent going back to the Stone Age – painted on their walls are prehistoric cave paintings, some dating back to 30,000 years ago. The minute stick figures cover the entire gamut of human existence from hunting to dance, from farming to religion; individuals, families and communities are depicted. Painted with vegetable and mineral colours mixed with oil, several centuries of work by many artists are superimposed on the same rock canvas. Thus this primitive art bears a striking resemblance to similar paintings discovered in the Kakadu National Park in Australia, the Kalahari in South Africa and in the Lascaux Caves in France.

Cost and timings: The Rock Shelters are open seven days a week from 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM. Entry cost is Rs 10 per adult and Rs 100 for foreigners. If you wish you can drive through and pay a higher price but it is advisable to enjoy the pleasant 1.5 Km walk which will take you to all 15 caves.

Tribal Art Museum:

One item on your Bhopal agenda that you must not miss is a visit to the Tribal Museum. This is a relatively new addition to Bhopal’s cultural scene, having been opened only in 2013 and has been designed with a flair and imagination that one does not typically associate with public museums in India. Tribals account for 30% of the population of M.P. and the museum showcases the culture and traditions of the seven major tribes. As you stroll through the seven galleries dedicated to the art, culture, mythology, rituals and everyday life of the tribals, you are always engaged because of the very realistic presentation of all their motifs and artefacts. For example the Tribal Life gallery is designed as a courtyard where the homes of the Gonds, Baigas, Bharias, Sahariyas, Bhils, Kols and Korkus are located next to each – you can enter each one and see how they were built from the original bamboo, grass, hay, mud and dung.

Cost and timings: The Tribal Museum is open on all days except Monday from 12:00 PM to 8:00 PM (one hour less in winters). Entry cost is Rs 10 per adult and Rs 250 for foreigners. Spend some time in the gift shop which has some interesting handicrafts for sale. And check the museum schedule for the free live music performances which happen from time to time in the outer courtyard.

Smack bang in the middle of the Indian subcontinent is the giant sprawling state of Madhya Pradesh. And lying in the centre of the state is its unassuming capital of Bhopal. As a tourist destination Bhopal may be considered to have little to offer – when compared to Jaipur or Hyderabad, as it was never the seat of a great empire. And all the major things to see and do in MP like the cultural centres of Gwalior, Khajuraho and Orccha and the tiger sanctuaries of Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench are scattered all over the state, none within convenient driving distance of Bhopal.

Nevertheless, if work takes you to Bhopal or you have family and friends there, it is well worth taking an extra day out to visit the handful of intriguing sights it has to offer. These are almost all on the outskirts of Bhopal so it would be very useful to have a car handy.

Here is our list of 4 best places to visit in Bhopal, which is also known as the City of Lakes.